Yields a gorgeous range of colors, from purple to blue to jet black depending on the mordant.
The strongest, purest expression of logwood available: just 1%-2% weight-of-fabric is enough to yield deep royal purples and midnight blues.
One ounce of Royal Logwood Extract will dye up to 3 lbs. of fiber to a dark color (results will depend on fiber type and depth of mordanting).
Made in the U.S.A. from sustainably harvested Mexican logwood.
Product Specifications
Product Information
Product Description
Shepherd Textiles Royal Logwood Extract - Natural Fabric Dye
Made From Natural Logwood
Shepherd Textiles Royal Logwood Extract is a powerful natural fabric dye produced from the heartwood of the logwood tree, haemotoxylin campechianum. Royal Logwood Extract is made by steam-extracting the natural purple dye hematine from logwood chips, and then collecting the crystals and grinding them to powder. It is proudly produced in the USA from sustainably grown Mexican logwood.
Deep Purples and Blues
Logwood can produce a range of beautiful shades, from lavender and royal purple to navy blue and true black. It yields purple hues on fiber mordanted with alum. On fibers mordanted with copper it can give anything from a denim blue to midnight blue. It yields grey and black on fibers mordanted with iron. Logwood is still used today by medical professionals to dye sutures, because it is the only natural dye that produces such a deep black.
One Ounce Dyes Three Pounds
Royal Logwood Extract is the strongest, purest expression of logwood available. Just 0.5% weight-of-fabric (WOF) will produce lavender colors, and 2% will yield dark purples or midnight blues. With an iron mordant, 4% will give true black. Just one ounce of Royal Logwood Extract is needed to dye up to 3 pounds of fiber to dark purple, or up to 8 pounds of fiber to softer lavender and denim colors. Results will vary depending on the fiber type and how it is mordanted.
Instructions for Royal Purple
1. Pre-mordant with Alum
Logwood will only dye fibers that have been mordanted.
For protein fibers (wool, silk, alpaca): Pre-mordant with 12% weight-of-fabric (WOF) alum. Fill dyepot with hot water. Weigh out alum, add, and stir until dissolved. Add pre-soaked fiber, heat to 170F for an hour, then allow to cool to room temperature. Remove fibers and dispose of mordant liquid according to local regulations.
For cellulose fibers (cotton, linen): Cellulose fibers will benefit from being pre-treated with a tannin like Sumac Extract to help them absorb alum more effectively. Treat according to manufacturer's directions. Afterwards, mordant as described above.
*Always wear gloves and eye protection when working with mordants or mordant liquor.
2. Make the Dye Bath
Fill your dyepot with warm water. Adjust the PH to 7 using vinegar or baking soda. If you don't have PH strips, just leave it as is; most tap water is fairly close to a PH of 7.
Weigh out 2% weight-of-fabric (WOF) of Royal Logwood Extract. Put it in a disposable cup and mix with a little hot water to make a thin slurry. Be sure to break up any clumps of powder, otherwise they may cause splotches on your fabric. Pour the slurry into the dyebath and mix well. You are now ready for dyeing.
3. Heat to 160°F
Place your pre-mordanted, pre-soaked fiber into the dyebath. Make sure there is plenty of water for everything to move around freely. Heat to 160°F for 30 minutes to an hour*. Stir gently every 15 minutes to make sure fiber dyes evenly. Be careful not to agitate wool too much, otherwise it may felt. A cheap candy thermometer that clips to the side of the dyepot will make it much easier to keep the temperature steady.
After 30 minutes or an hour, remove dye pot from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
*Logwood bonds to well-mordanted fiber very quickly. If you check color after 30 minutes and it is dark enough, you can remove from heat. Do not leave dye bath on the heat for more than an hour, or the color may lose some clarity.
4. Rinse and Dry
Carefully remove dyed fiber. You can either hang it up to dry to help the color set, or proceed immediately to rinsing.
Rinse thoroughly with a PH-neutral fabric detergent according to manufacturer's directions. Use plenty of detergent; it will not remove color that has already bonded to the fiber. After rinsing, squeeze gently to make sure water runs clear. Hang up to dry.
CAUTION: Natural dyes like logwood will bleed if the fiber is not thoroughly rinsed after dyeing.
Beautiful pinks, intense fuchsias, and cherry and crimsons reds. Changing the PH of the dyebath will yield a range of different colors.
Deep reds, including the intense crimson known as "Turkish red." Also yields softer peaches and pinks when smaller amounts are used. Wild-harvested and certified by GOTS.
Clear, intense yellows. Has an affinity for hard-to-dye fibers like alpaca and cotton. Extracted from edible marigold blossoms.
The strongest natural blue dye. Produces anything from pale sky blues to dark denim blues. Sustainably produced; the extracted leaves are composted as fertilizer for the next crop.
A range of natural greens, from pale jades to dark forest greens. Extracted from the natural chlorophyll in mulberry leaves.
Yummy candy-colored reds and pinks, or shift the color to mulberry purple with a copper mordant. A strong dye that can be used for multiple dye baths.
The brightest of the natural yellow dyes. Powerful and lightfast, grown organically in the Languedoc region of southern France.
Rich cinnamon browns that can shift to chocolate with the addition of iron. Strong, lightfast colors, and tannic enough to perform well on cellulose fibers like cotton.
Warm golden yellows that shift toward brick red with the addition of an alkaline modifier.
Bright sky blues on protein fibers like silk and wool. The only natural blue textile dye that doesn't require an indigo vat.
Powerful, bright oranges with a golden tint. The most tannic of the natural orange and yellow dyes, perfect for dyeing cotton.
Deep burgundy reds and rich merlot purples--all the colors of red wine.