Shepherd Textiles Marigold Extract is made from tagetes erecta, also known as the Mexican Marigold or Aztec Marigold. The blossoms of Aztec Marigolds are orange because of a powerful carotenoid called lutein. When extracted from the flower petals, the lutein keeps its intense color. With the help of an alum mordant, the color from marigold flowers can then be dyed on fibers and yarn.
Clear, Bright Yellows
Marigold produces a clear, bright yellow on fibers mordanted with alum. Depending on the concentration it can give soft lemons or even dark egg yolk yellows. It has a good affinity for natural fibers, including ones that are normally more resistant to natural dyes like alpaca and cotton. It can also be successfully applied to wool and silk without a mordant, although the color will be more pale.
One Ounce Dyes a Pound
Shepherd Textiles Marigold Extract gives strong yellows at 5% weight-of-fabric (WOF) on fibers mordanted with alum. One ounce will dye up to a pound of yarn to an intense yellow (final shade will vary according to the fiber type and thoroughness of mordanting). An ounce will dye up to two or three pounds of fiber to pale lemon shades. Marigold Extract also makes a good base to overdye with other natural extracts.
1. Pre-mordant with Alum
Pre-mordant with 12% weight-of-fabric (WOF) alum: Fill dyepot with hot water. Weigh out alum, add, and stir until dissolved. Add pre-soaked fiber, heat to 170F for an hour, then allow to cool to room temperature. Remove fibers and dispose of mordant liquid according to local regulations.
Cellulose fibers (cotton, linen, bamboo): Marigold extract dyes cellulose fibers very successfully, but the color may be more pale, especially on cotton. Using aluminum acetate as the mordant, instead of normal alum, will strengthen the color on cellulose fibers.
*Always wear gloves and eye protection when working with mordants or mordant liquor.
2. Make the Dyebath
Fill your dyepot with warm water. Marigold works best at neutral PH: adjust the PH to 7 if necessary, but most tap water will already be close enough.
Weigh out 5% weight-of-fabric (WOF) of Marigold Extract. Put it in a disposable cup and mix with a little hot water to make a thin slurry. Be sure to break up any clumps of powder, otherwise they may cause splotches on your fabric. Pour the slurry into the dyebath and mix well. You are now ready for dyeing.
3. Heat to 180°F
Place your pre-mordanted, pre-soaked fiber into the dyebath. Make sure there is plenty of water for everything to move around freely. Heat to 180°F for 1.5 hours to 2 hours. Stir gently every 15 minutes to make sure fiber dyes evenly. Be careful not to agitate wool too much, otherwise it may felt. A cheap candy thermometer that clips to the side of the dyepot will make it much easier to keep the temperature steady.
After 1.5 hours to 2 hours, remove dye pot from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
4. Rinse and Dry
Carefully remove dyed fiber. You can either hang it up to dry to help the color set, or proceed immediately to rinsing.
Rinse thoroughly with a PH-neutral fabric detergent according to manufacturer's directions. Use plenty of detergent; it will not remove color that has already bonded to the fiber. After rinsing, squeeze gently to make sure water runs clear. Hang up to dry.
CAUTION: Natural dyes like marigold will bleed if the fiber is not thoroughly rinsed after dyeing.
Deep reds, including the intense crimson known as "Turkish red." Also yields softer peaches and pinks when smaller amounts are used. Wild-harvested and certified by GOTS.
Intense royal purples. With different mordants it can also produce denim blues or even true black. Royal Logwood is the most powerful extract available--just 1%-2% WOF produces deep, dark purples.
Beautiful pinks, intense fuchsias, and cherry and crimsons reds. Extremely powerful; just 2% or 3% weight-of-fabric (WOF) will yield strong colors.
The strongest natural blue dye. Produces anything from pale sky blues to dark denim blues. Sustainably produced; the extracted leaves are composted as fertilizer for the next crop.
A range of natural greens, from pale jades to dark forest greens. Extracted from the natural chlorophyll in mulberry leaves.