Shepherd Textiles Mulberry Leaf Extract Natural Dye, 1 oz.

1. Pre-mordant with Alum

For protein fibers (wool, silk, alpaca): Pre-mordant with 12% weight-of-fabric (WOF) alum. Fill dyepot with hot water. Weigh out alum, add, and stir until dissolved. Add pre-soaked fiber, heat to 170F for an hour, then allow to cool to room temperature. Remove fibers and dispose of mordant liquid according to local regulations.

For cellulose fibers (cotton, linen, bamboo): Cellulose fibers need to be pre-treated with a tannin like oak gall before they will absorb alum effectively. Treat according to manufacturer's directions. Afterwards, mordant with alum as described above.

*Always wear gloves and eye protection when working with mordants or mordant liquor.

2. Make the Dyebath

Fill your dyepot with warm water. Mulberry Leaf Extract is not affected by PH, so there is no need to adjust it.

Weigh out 5% weight-of-fabric (WOF) of Mulberry Leaf Extract. Put it in a disposable cup and mix with a little hot water to make a thin slurry. Be sure to break up any clumps of powder, otherwise they may cause splotches on your fabric. Pour the slurry into the dyebath and mix well. You are now ready for dyeing.

3. Heat to 170°F

Place your pre-mordanted, pre-soaked fiber into the dyebath. Make sure there is plenty of water for everything to move around freely. Heat to 170°F for 45 minutes to an hour. Stir gently every 15 minutes to make sure fiber dyes evenly. Be careful not to agitate wool too much, otherwise it may felt. A cheap candy thermometer that clips to the side of the dyepot will make it much easier to keep the temperature steady.

After 45 minutes or an hour, remove dye pot from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

The final color will vary according to the fiber type and depth of mordanting; in the same dyebath, cotton and alpaca may yield lighter greens, while linen and wool come out much darker.

4. Rinse and Dry

Remove fibers and hang up to dry to help the color set. Afterwards, proceed to rinsing.

Rinse thoroughly with a PH-neutral fabric detergent according to manufacturer's directions. Use plenty of detergent; it will not remove color that has already bonded to the fiber. After rinsing, squeeze gently to make sure water runs clear. Hang up to dry.

CAUTION: The chlorophyllin in Mulberry Leaf Extract will bleed if the fiber is not thoroughly rinsed after dyeing. It may also have a noticeable smell of green tea until it has been washed a few times. Store dyed items out of direct sunlight to prevent fading.