The Pattern Making Primer: All You Need to Know About Designing, Adapting, and Customizing Sewing Patterns The Pattern Making Primer: All You Need to Know About Designing, Adapting, and Customizing Sewing Patterns Paperback Spiral-bound
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From the Publisher
THE PATTERN MAKING PRIMER
About the Author
Jo Barnfield is a Designer/Maker operating under the nom de plume of 'House of Jo'. After graduating in 2008 with a BA Hon in Fashion and Textiles, she cut her teeth in the fashion Industry working as a Pattern Cutter and Technical Illustrator for Jasmine Di Milo. She is currently juggling freelance work alongside the role of Part Time Lecturer and Industry Practitioner at Bath Spa University and City of Bath College, teaching design, pattern cutting and construction.
All You Need to Know about Designing, Adapting & Customizing Sewing Patterns
This book is your ultimate resource for pattern making. Use it as your tool for coming to grips with every aspect of pattern design and customization. Clear, jargon-free text and fully illustrated techniques will guide you through every step and past every pitfall, giving you the confidence you need to take patterns into your own hands.
You'll learn about:
Tools and equipment
Seams, darts, and notches
Measurements, slopers, annotations, and blocks
Fitting and adjusting
Adding and suppressing volume
Sleeves, collars, waistbands, and cuffs
Pockets
And much more
Here's just some of the information you'll find:
Tools, Supplies, and Equipment
It is important to understand the tools of the pattern-cutting trade before you start. Some are essential (such as measuring tape) or multifunctional (such as Patternmaster) and you will use them constantly. Others have a specific use (e.g., a pattern notcher) and you will need them less often. These tools can be accumulated over time, and you may form your own equipment preferences as you work.
Taking Measurements
Measure Twice; Sew Once
Always check measurements before committing a pattern to fabric, noting measurements on each pattern piece. Check that notches are correctly positioned, especially after a pattern alteration. Curved pattern pieces should be measured using the tape's edge.
Sleeves
A range of sleeve techniques is provided to add variety to your designs. A well-set sleeve will frame a garment, and care and attention should be shown at the construction phase to ensure consistency.
Pictured above: A button-front shirt with bishop-style sleeve gathered at the wrist.
Muslins
A muslin, or toile, is essentially a garment prototype. Up to this point, the initial pattern draft is just a hypothesis in pattern cutting, and is only proven when the muslin is created and then tested on the fitting model or dress form. In the transformation from a flat to a 3-D shape, many unforeseen problems can arise. The muslin is a means of testing the design so that these may be corrected and the pattern resolved.